Pacman Frog Care

CHOOSING YOUR PACMAN FROG

Pacman frogs are usually sold as juveniles. The four most popular species of Pacman frog are:

Surinam horned.

Argentine horned.

Cranwell’s horned.

Fantasy horned.

All these species are widely available in the pet trade at reptile expos and from private breeders.

Look for a frog that has all its fingers and toes intact, with clear, open eyes and even skin.

Frogs that are injured by another frog can quickly develop an infection after the stress of moving to a new home.

If you can, ask to see the frog eat. The largest personality trait of Pacman frogs is their ferocious appetite. Try and pick an individual that enthusiastically eats its food.

COMMON HEALTH PROBLEMS

Bacterial and fungal infections of the skin and eyes are among the most common ailments of amphibians, and the Pacman frog is no exception. Any redness, swelling, or pus is a sign of an infection.

Pacman frogs also are susceptible to parasitic infections. If your tank temperatures are warm enough and your frog still isn't eating well, bring your frog to an experienced exotics vet to rule out parasitism. A yearly fecal sample should also be checked to make sure your frog doesn't have an overgrowth of common parasites.

Although less common in frogs than in other reptiles and amphibians, a Pacman frog kept in an enclosure without enough humidity may develop a respiratory infection. This is marked by wheezing, drooling, and lethargy. Also, be on the lookout for ammonia poisoning. This potentially fatal condition occurs when waste in an animal's enclosure is not properly cleaned.

All the above conditions can be treated by a veterinarian if detected early enough.

HOUSING

When setting up a Pacman frog’s enclosure the two most important factors to consider are humidity and substrate.

These amphibians like to burrow. Their substrate should be three to four inches deep and nonabrasive so they can bury themselves. Coconut fiber is the best choice because it is soft, retains moisture, and is cheap to buy in bulk. Keep the coconut fiber damp but not wet. Squeezing the substrate should yield a few drops of water.

Humidity is another important factor in keeping a healthy frog.

Too little moisture can prompt dormancy. Too much can lead to skin infections.

The ideal humidity for a Pacman frog is 70 to 80%.

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Set Up Tips:

Tank Type: glass or plastic.

Tank Size: 20-gallon long tank.

Lighting: heat bulb.

Substrate: coconut fiber.

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For this species, tank width is more important than height.

Adults can live in a 20-gallon long glass tank that measures 30”x 12”x 12”.

Glass or plastic tanks are both resistant to warping from high humidity and allow for easy viewing.

Make sure to include live plants and leaf litter in their tank too. Both are great for providing your Pacman with hiding spots.

Finally, provide your frog with a wide and shallow water dish. The dish should be big enough so your frog to soak without becoming fully submerged. Pacman frogs are not good swimmers and may drown if their water bowl is too deep. Clean their bowl out daily and refill it with chlorine free water.

LIGHTING

Maintain a daytime temperature of 77 to 83°F and a night-time temperature of 70 to 75°F. If kept in warm room Pacman frogs are fine with a heat bulb during the day. Avoid using under-tank heat mats. Any under-tank heater can burn a burrowing frog.

FEEDING

Pacman frogs are opportunistic carnivores. This means Pacman frogs eat any animal that will fit in their mouth.

In the wild, these amphibians prefer to sit and wait for animals to wander past – instead of actively hunting prey. Their dark green and brown mottled coloring allows them to blend in with the leaf litter on forest floors.

They regularly eat small prey such as ants and mites but also eat larger vertebrates such as mice, snakes, and other frogs.

In captivity, froglets should be fed earthworms and insects such as crickets and Dubai roaches.

Waxworms and mealworms can be given as an occasional treat. However, they contain high fat and fiber levels, so they should not be a major part of the diet.

Growing frogs should be fed five crickets or roaches every day.

Dust these insects with a calcium powder before feeding. This will help to ensure your frog maintains sufficient levels of vitamin D3.

The best rule of thumb is to feed as much food as it will eat in 15 minutes. After 15 minutes remove anything that is uneaten.

As your pet grows its appetite will slowly decrease.

Adults only need to be fed every other day. Adults can be offered a pinkie mouse once every two weeks.

Pacman frogs are eager eaters and have a powerful bite. To avoid painful bites, you may want to feed them with tongs.