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Tomato Frog Care

CHOOSING YOUR TOMATO FROG

Tomato frogs make great pets. They are very docile and do not need a large enclosure. This makes them well suited to beginners.

This species spends most of its day burrowed in substrate. They also have a simple care and husbandry routine.

At night your frog will move around their terrarium, use ambush hunting tactics, and vocalize.

Pros

  • Vibrant shades of red, orange, and yellow.

  • Can keep multiple individuals in a single tank.

  • Calm and docile nature.

Cons

  • Should not be handled.

  • Secrete toxic mucus when threatened or stressed.

  • Cannot be kept with other species of frogs.

COMMON HEALTH PROBLEMS

Bacterial Diseases: Tomato frogs that are maintained in captivity are prone to bacterial diseases or infections. If left untreated, the bacterial disease can lead to a more severe health condition and may end in death. Common causes of bacterial infection include unsanitary enclosures, traumatic injuries or wounds, and secondary infections such as mycotic skin infections and viral infections.

Fungal and Parasitic Infections: Aside from acquiring bacterial diseases, frogs and other amphibians are also prone to fungal and parasitic infections. Frogs that are immunocompromised are prone to fungal infections. Immediate and aggressive treatment is needed as soon as possible since these diseases can kill your frog without warning.

Frog Toxicities:  We can’t emphasize more how crucial it is for keepers to maintain a healthy and sanitary enclosure or terrarium for their frogs. Frogs are very sensitive to environmental toxins, and this is because they have permeable skin.

Hypo/Hyperthermia

Metabolic Bone Disease

Overfeeding and Obesity

Dehydration

PLEASE DO YOUR RESEARCH

HOUSING

This species is normally found in the rainforests, swamps, and marshes of Madagascar. They need the island’s tropical ecosystem and subtropical climate.

A tomato frog setup is very simple. This is one of the reasons why they are great for beginners.

They can be housed in a 10-gallon tank but ideally use a 20-gallon long tank. Make sure the tank has plenty of horizontal space and not vertical.

As a species that does not swim you can fill the entire tank with three inches of substrate.

The best substrate is coconut fiber. It is soft and will make burrowing easy for your frog. Add branches and hollow logs for decoration too.

If you want a planted tank, it is possible to add live plants because of the coconut fiber substrate. However, the burrowing behavior of this frog will likely kill the plants. It is best to use fake plants!

  • Tank Type: glass.

  • Tank Size: 20-gallon long tank.

  • Lighting: low wattage 2.0 UVB/UVA light.

  • Substrate: three inches coconut fiber.

LIGHTING

They are nocturnal and prefer to burrow under leaves and mud during the day.

Because of their nocturnal lifestyle they do not need any specific lighting.

If you are growing plants in their tank, then use a low-wattage 2.0 UVB/UVA bulb.

The tank temperature should be kept between 65 to 85° Fahrenheit.

Humidity should be fairly high and kept between 65 to 80%. This is one of the reasons it is important to use a substrate like coconut fiber. It will help to keep the humidity high.

Make sure you mist the enclosure daily and do not forget to use a hygrometer.

FEEDING

In the wild tomato frogs are carnivores.

It is common for them to hunt a variety of insects such as worms, snails, and burrowing insects.

They are nocturnal ambush hunters, so they do most of their eating at night-time. These frogs wait patiently for prey to stumble upon their hiding spot before attacking.

Even for a frog they are big eaters.

In captivity, they should be fed crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and super worms. Adults can occasionally be fed a small pinkie mouse:

  • Adults should be fed six to ten prey items every other day.

  • Juveniles should be fed four to five prey items every day.

 

Make sure to provide a variety of insects and not just one. You should also dust prey with a reptile calcium supplement (once a week for adults and three times a week for juveniles).

You will never see a Tomato frog drink water. But this does not mean they do not need water.

Frogs, like all amphibians, absorb water through their skin.

You should fill a shallow dish with clean dechlorinated water that has a neutral pH level.

 

In order to maintain good health tomato frogs, need calcium supplements.

Calcium supplements will ensure your frog receives nutrients their diet may not cover.

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