CHOOSING YOUR YELLOW UROMASTYX

There are several things to consider when obtaining a Uromastyx lizard. First off, find out the eventual adult size of the species you are getting. Attempt to determine the genuine source and history of the lizard, including whether it is captive bred, imported recently, or imported long enough ago to be acclimated to captivity. All other things being equal, captive-bred animals are more likely to be free from parasites, accustomed to a captive diet and the constraints of a cage, and less frightened by typical household activities. Genuine, captive-bred Uros are normally only available as hatchlings.

COMMON HEALTH PROBLEMS

Tail Rot: Keeping a Uromastyx in an enclosure that is too moist, or failing to dry them off after a soak, can lead to so-called “tail rot”. This “rot” is either bacterial or fungal infections that can build up in the moist tail crevices of a Uro’s spiny tail. The tail turns dark and can sometimes fall off if not treated. A trip to a qualified reptile veterinarian is always advisable in these instances.

High Protein Diet: Excess protein can be hazardous to Uromastyx because it over-taxes the kidneys and liver. Over time, too much protein can affect the function of these organs. Strive to keep the amount of protein from plant foods low by avoiding excessive feeding of beans and other legumes. For most species, insects should not be part of the Uromastyx diet. They are unnecessary at best, and dangerous at worst.

Metabolic Bone Disease: Also known as MBD, this is a term used to describe several disorders related to the weakening of bones or impaired system function caused by an imbalance of calcium, phosphorus, or vitamin D3. It is one of the most commonly seen health problems in many lizards and is often the result of inadequate levels of calcium in the diet, or improper UVB lighting, which is essential for calcium absorption. Symptoms of MBD range from the mild (lethargy, lack of appetite) to the severe (rubbery bones, spinal deformities, tremors and twitching of the extremities). Veterinary care is a must for any Uromastyx with suspected MBD.

HOUSING

Choosing a substrate often involves a compromise based on safety and suitability for the reptile, weight, economy, convenience, appearance, odor, dust, etc. A good Uromastyx lizard substrate for ease and simplicity is still an inch or two of good ol’ natural sand, with most of the cage floor occupied by various basking and climbing sites.

Commonly sold as “washed play sand,” it is usually quite inexpensive. Although there have been stories of it being blamed for stomach impactions, it has been used for more than a decade without any apparent problems. Fecal matter and leftover food in the sand can be quickly sifted out with a screened sifting tool or a kitty litter scoop.

Do note that not all sand is created equal – avoid any sharp-edged sand that is intended for sandblasting or is a by-product of a mining or industrial operation.

Substrates based on walnut shells or absorbent materials like wood shaving or paper mulch, have been implicated in impaction problems and must be avoided. *Proper presentation of foods, such as placing them on dishes on top of substrate, will go a long way toward preventing ingestion of substrate.

When using a totally dry substrate, consider including a sizeable “burrow box” in the cooler end of the cage to simulate a more natural retreat. The boxes have a small entry hole not much larger than the lizard's diameter, or optionally an entry tube made of plastic piping. It should contain slightly moistened substrate or better yet, create a mix for superior moisture retention by adding items such as clay, topsoil, and fine vermiculite. A good mix will also support the holes dug in it by the Uromastyx, something that plain sand and many other substances can’t possibly do. It should contain slightly moistened substrate or better yet, create a mix for superior moisture retention by adding items such as clay, topsoil, and fine vermiculite. A good mix will also support the holes dug in it by the Uromastyx, something that plain sand and many other substances can’t possibly do.

LIGHTING

Uros are normally only active during daylight hours. The opportunity to thermoregulate, or adjust their body temperature, is critical to their health. A cool Uromastyx lizard typically has a darker, drab coloration, which absorbs the radiant solar heat more quickly. As the Uromastyx basks in morning sunlight, its body temperature will rise to the high levels it needs for activity and digestion, and its colors will lighten and brighten dramatically. It must periodically seek shade to avoid overheating. Uromastyx burrows can be several feet deep and may maintain a temperature as much as 30 degrees lower than the surface, with higher humidity levels as well.

Bright, hot lighting is necessary to stimulate normal Uromastyx feeding and digestion. Generally, the goal is to have a very brightly lit cage with a gradual temperature gradient from approximately 80 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit and basking zones of 120 degrees or more.

This is typically accomplished with a hot end/cold end arrangement making use of cooler fluorescent lights and hotter incandescent basking lights. Clever cage designs may also make use of different levels on rocks or branches whereby the varying distances from the heat source will create different temperature zones.

Do not guess at the temperatures you’ve created. Use an accurate, well-placed thermometer.

All lights are off at night. Nocturnal heating is not necessary in most homes. If your setup allows the cage to fall below 65 at night, you may need to add a small heat-emitting bulb. To prevent thermal injury to a sleeping lizard, the bulb should be carefully controlled and monitored.

FEEDING

Majority of their diet is filled with chopped up greens.

Collard greens, dandelion greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, prepackaged spring mixes, escarole, endive, radicchio, and bok choy.

*The portion of plants like kale and spinach containing calcium-blocking oxalates should be kept to a minimum.

 

Plant matter should be chopped up and presented like a mixed salad for your Uromastyx lizard.

Place food in a shallow dish and not in a hot spot in their enclosure.

 

Yellow, red, and white flower blossoms also seem to be particularly stimulating for Uros. Once a week, try to grate some vegetables like squash, carrots or sweet potatoes and mix them in with the greens.

 

Uromastyx lizards love to eat seeds. Try to use dry lentils straight from the grocery store shelf, as well as small bird seed mixes containing safflower, grass seeds, etc.

Avoid sunflower seeds in case their pointed shells could do some damage internally. Many seeds are also easily sprouted, which Uros find irresistible.

 

Uros also can get a weekly serving of the manufactured pellets sold for reptile food. Use the Rep-Cal brand Iguana Food for its low-protein content, bright colors, and the option of a smaller size pellet for juveniles. Zoo Med’s Natural Grassland Tortoise Food is also used.

Some keepers favor Mazuri Tortoise Food.

 

Uromastyx diets must have a ratio of calcium to phosphorus that’s greater than one. Use a light dusting of calcium supplement weekly, and an even smaller amount of multivitamin powder.

 

Try giving your Uro a couple insects per month (cricket, mealworm, or super worm of appropriate size) or none at all.