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Chameleon Care

Jackson Chameleon
Senegal Chameleon
Veiled Chameleon

CHOOSING YOUR CHAMELEON

When selecting a pet chameleon, it is best to find a captive-bred one. Wild-caught specimens are usually extremely stressed, carry a heavy parasite load, and have difficulty acclimating to captive conditions.

Chameleons are not the hardiest nor easiest reptiles to keep and starting with a stressed pet will only make matters worse. In addition, the capture and shipping of chameleons (which fortunately is being more tightly regulated) results in the deaths of many animals. Many more die in transit than make it to the pet store.

Once you've found a captive bred chameleon, observe them. They should be bright and active, able to change colors, and have a well-fleshed body.

COMMON HEALTH PROBLEMS

Many chameleons suffer from calcium and Vitamin A deficiencies, usually the results of a poor diet. They're also prone to mouth rot, or stomatitis, an infection around the mouth that shows redness and excess saliva or drooling.

Another common ailment among chameleons is metabolic bone disease. This condition, which can be fatal if not treated appropriately, causes a chameleon's bones to become spongy. They'll look lethargic and may lose their appetite.

As with any condition where your pet seems ill or stressed, it's best to consult a veterinarian who specializes in reptiles. Try to avoid home remedies before you've consulted a vet.

HOUSING

The natural habits of chameleons make them tricky to care for. Chameleons are arboreal, meaning they live exclusively in trees. They need cages with ample foliage for climbing and privacy, and the enclosure must be quite large.

For the larger chameleons a cage measuring 3 feet by 3 feet by 4 feet tall should be provided, but the more space the better. Ample ventilation is required, and a cage screened on three sides is best with poly mesh or vinyl coated wire preferred to prevent toe injuries.

You will need:

  • Several basking areas of various temperatures.

(Be sure to research the specifics for your breed.)

  • Drip system to provide water droplets throughout the tank since chameleons don’t drink from dishes/bowls of water.

(Drip systems can be purchased or fashioned from a water container with a pinhole placed on top of the cage, or even by placing ice cubes on top of the cage to melt slowly and drip into the cage. If a drip system is used, keep the watering location consistent so the chameleon knows where to find water. Misting will also help keep the humidity levels up.)

*With a drip system, excess water should be collected and removed to prevent the humidity from getting too high.

LIGHTING

Chameleons need exposure to UVA and UVB rays. In addition, allowing some exposure to natural sunlight through an open window (glass filters out nearly all the necessary UV radiation) will help keep chameleons happy and healthy. The UVB lights should be on for 10 hours a day.

 

WARNING

Follow manufacturer directions to make sure you do not cause thermal burns on your chameleon.

FEEDING

At an early age, chameleons must be fed as much as they will eat daily until fully grown. Each chameleon grows at a different rate depending on the environment around them. Upon adulthood, your chameleon will have shown you how much they need to be fed daily. Be aware of signs of obesity when feeding especially in adulthood.

RULE OF THUMB: Portion sizes should be the size of the chameleon’s head width.

What should I feed my chameleon?

A variety of insects:

  • Crickets*

  • Mealworms (Rare Treat in Moderation)*

  • Super Worms*

  • Wax Worms*

  • Wax Moths*

  • Roaches*

Some nutritious leafy greens and other vegetables and fruits can be offered in small amounts as chameleons will occasionally eat these.

WHAT TO AVOID: Bugs exposed to pesticides, lady bugs, spinach, iceberg lettuce, cabbage, kale, figs, apricots, mice, pinkies, other lizards, birds, wild caught slugs, butterflies, fireflies, animal food, meat, and most human food.

Feeder items are generally placed in the enclosure freely, placed in a feeding bowl/dish, or hand fed.

 

*Prey Food

**Prey food should be loaded with calcium prior to feeding and should be tossed and dusted in a bag with a calcium supplement.

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